I am writing this as we depart Montreal, at the end of our time here.
We had decided some time ago that we wanted to go to the Leonard Cohen exhibit in Montreal, and had many commendations from friends who had been. As is our usual pattern, we procrastinated until the exhibit was almost finished. Fortunately, this pushed us to contact friends and lay out our itinerary for a long weekend (5 days) in Montreal with friends and with Leonard Cohen. Darlene did most of the arranging, and I arranged the transport to and from (the easy part).
We left home about 9 in the morning to take our little smart car to Aldershot, find a parking place for it, and get on the GO Train bound for Toronto. This part went smoothly, and the transfer to our VIA train was effortless. The train was full, but we were comfortable, and they soon came around with refreshments to ease any pain we might have. Soon we were barreling through the south-eastern Ontario countryside.
And then we weren’t. Just past Belleville, we ground to a halt, pulling past a smoking vehicle at the side of the tracks. When we stopped, I noticed a policeman walking beside the train, carrying a rifle. Hmm. It took a while, but eventually the news came in that we were stopped by a police action. Some convicts had escaped, and just been re-captured. In the process, a car had been left too close to the tracks, and our train had hit it. We needed to stay put for up to two hours before the police and VIA would be able to let us go on.
Fortunately, it was not a full two hours, and we were going again. We phoned Claudette (with whom we were staying) and told her we would be late. We actually arrived at Bonaventure about 90 minutes behind when we were scheduled. Claudette’s Metro instructions were good, we bought our passes and went there as fast as we could.
She lives in a 25-story apartment block, on the 21st floor. A nice small apartment, close to almost everything, by the old Forum and Alexis Nihon Plaza. Turns out we had missed the rush hour, and the crowds were not at all bad on the metro. And we had two wonderful examples of generosity: people who were kind enough to help Darlene on the stairs with her bag.
A terrific supper, and then to bed. Lots of talk and reminiscing about Montreal, the Pointe, and so on. We slept well, happy to be back with old friends and in a favourite city.
The next day, after a great breakfast, we headed out to the Leonard Cohen exhibit at the MAC (Musée d’Art Contemporain). We got there when it opened at 11, and were met by a long line of people looking for tickets to the exhibit that morning. We had bought our tickets beforehand, so were able to go right in. First stop we made was to a ten-foot diameter “room” where there was a humming of “Hallelujah”; you stood inside, and the humming was going on, and you were encouraged to pick up one of the mikes and join in. Many did, and it was actually quite magical, and moving. We saw a room where there were many artists, doing covers of Cohen’s songs. We saw a room where there was a movie across many screens of him singing at various times in his career. We saw a room where there was recorded many interviews with him during his life, from the 1970’s to the 2010’s. We saw a room which was made to look like his main writing room in his Montreal home, complete with typewriter, guitar, chair. And we saw a room where there was a chorus of singers from the synagogue on a screen, and in a circular room behind this, perhaps twenty large portrait screens of older men singing his songs. Perhaps none of this sounds interesting in writing it, but it was quite emotional for me, for us. Reluctantly, we left at about 2:30, and ended up walking down St-Urbain to Old Montreal. We were looking for a particular coffee shop which we had been told about, and found it, but it was unable to seat us, so we went to McGill Plaza Deli and Grill for a bite to eat and a coffee. Bought some flowers, and headed back to Claudette’s to get ready for supper on top of Place Ville-Marie. We got there (to PVM) by taking the metro a ways, the walking through the underground city. Boy, what a complex of shops and walkways! You could get lost without any difficulty. Again, Claudette was a good guide, and we arrived safely, going up to the top and looking out over the city. We were blessed with a clear sky, so we could see a long ways.
The meal was not great, but the atmosphere and views were, so a memorable evening. Back to the apartment, some more talk and some more wine before heading to bed.

The next morning, after breakfast, we headed by transit down to Pointe St-Charles. What followed was a tour of the part of the quartier that mattered to us, with Claudette as a very good tour guide. We saw the “Building 7”, an old CN building which was destined to be torn down, before the community organized and petitioned the City to buy it and give it to them (which the city did), and which is to be a community resource, with community rooms, art galleries, stores for fresh vegetables, and so on: our political activism of forty years ago carried on. We saw the clinic building I worked in, now destitute (owned by the Parish, who has no plan for it).
We saw our old house, in pretty good shape overall.


We walked and walked, ending up on Centre Street, and stopping for lunch at a Mexican Restaurant (the Cafe Cantina) for quite a good lunch.
Then back to the apartment, packed and got the Metro to Vendome to meet the Risachers for the following “leg” of our journey. They met us and drove us to their place, where we settled in quite comfortably into a long and quite close conversation including how they are doing with the loss of Electra at this point, and how their own retirement is coming along. Again, a great meal, lots of wine, and a late bedtime. So the next morning was somewhat later in getting started than we had planned. Darlene’s visit to Quakers was out, and the Risachers volunteered to drive us right to Bruce and Elizabeth’s house.
Now, when we knew we were going to be in Montreal, we had contacted Jeannie and Hugh to see if they might be interested in coming into town. They siad they would, and would like to see us and Bruce and Elizabeth. So we asked Liz and she said they could come for supper on the Sunday. So far, so good. We had also talked to Donna Cherniak (who was one of the folks who insisted we see the Cohen exhibit). She and Denis were going to be in Toronto with family, but would be coming through the Montreal area on their way home - on Sunday. So we called Liz again, and our four became six, became eight.
We arrived at Bruce and Elizabeth’s about 2, said our hello’s, amd settled in. Jean and Hugh arrived not long after. Four of us (Jean, Hugh, Liz and myself) decided to walk up to Mount Royal in the afternoon, before supper. We set out, braving the cold wind, but enjoying the blue skies. The snow, we were told, had melted a fair bit, but there was still a lot of it (fortunately not so much on the paths). And we walked up to the observation platform overlooking Montreal.

(Note the Cohen mural on the building partway down the hill.)
Then back to the house, and we enjoyed a long talk about Jean and High’s trip to New Zealand and Viet Nam, and various connections we had. Lots of memories about the past, about the Pointe, about the time forty years ago.
Just about on time at 6, Donna came with Denis. And then the connections got more complex and complicated. Turns out Bruce had stayed at Donna’s place when he was going out with Donna’s room-mate in the late 60’s. I had stayed with Donna in Montreal when I had come down for something in the late 60’s as well. Denis and Hugh had some connection through farming. Jeannie and Liz were together at Queen’s. Jeannie and I knew each other in Toronto, and then at med school. Donna and I knew each other from Med School.
Dinner was served, and we sat down to a wonderful meal of ham, asparagus, scalloped potatoes, and copious amounts of wine. We began with conversation, and somehow transitioned into song: songs of struggle (Joe Hill); songs for fun (Erie Canal); poems of old (the Jabberwalky); songs from camp; songs from Cohen. It would be a gross understatement to say that the night was a success.
The other two couples had to leave for their homes about 9, but Bruce, Liz, Darlene and I stayed up for another few hours to cherish the evening.
The next morning was a slow start, but complemented by a breakfast of eggs Benedict, croissants, and good company. It turns out that this day was Bruce’s 71st birthday, so we celebrated with a card, nice breakfast, and chocolte (of course). When we finished our meal, we headed down to the Atwater Market. Here we perused the stores for cheese, chocolate, coffee, spices, and so on. We even bought a few things. We went down to the Lachine Canal (not far) from there, but it was so cold we did not stay long.

And then back to Highland for a brief lunch before walking down to visit with Manny and Chris. Manny had just undergone a knee replacement about ten days before, and Chris had been put into the role of nurse once again. Manny was up and around when we got there, but was not able to stay alert and sociable for too long, so we stayed about two hours and then left. They have a good place for them: single floor, able to be lived on as a single floor, and adequate for their needs. They have lived there for about two years now (seems recent to us). When we left, we were on our way back up the hill to Bruce and Elizabeth’s, but partway up, Darlene gratefully accepted a ride from Bruce.
That evening was a supper made from left-overs, aided by the Hollandaise sauce from the morning, and some fresh asparagus. And a birthday cake with maple syrup ice cream. Also some more wine. After dinner, we adjourned to the living room,where Liz produced her dulcimer and we began another evening of song and music. Late again to bed once more.
Today we woke to a house without Bruce: he had gone out for a 17-km run with his friends. We had our breakfast with Liz, talked some more, and planned the day. We took off, dropped our bags at the station, went up to St-Viateur Bagel for supplies for home,
and then said our good-bye’s to those two good hosts, with a promise to see them again sometime soon.
We had a lunch at Schwartz’s Deli, and decide we needed and wanted to wlk to the station, which we did. We there met with Claudette again, partly to return a forgotten iPad charger, and partly to have a coffee and plan for seeing each other again.
And then on the train, and here we are heading back to Dundas.