Cape Town, times 2

We both slept quite well. Our host, Patricia, stayed up to meet us and get us set up, and had some food for our stay as well. A delightful beginning that we were not able to do justice to. We fell into bed, and got up in the morning feeling somewhat better overall.

But Darlene's allergy was getting worse, so our host kindly phoned her doctor, and I spoke with her briefly. We stopped the malarial meds, and the doctor suggested another anti-histamine which might be better for her. With Patricia's help, we got to a pharmacy, then decided to spend a bit of time at a cafe in the sun (Darlene was again feeling cold), before heading back to the B&B. We needed to spend the rest of the day there.

The following day, we got downtown and took a tour of the city, which included a visit to Table Mountain (unfortunately covered in cloud). It was so good, we did it twice, and will do some of another tour today, likely. This is a beautiful city, although racked with poverty in some areas, and crime as a result of this.

And that was abut all we were up for that day. What with allergies and the medications used to treat them, Darlene was not too energetic. And I was happy to work on my blog and read.
Following day, we walked downtown to go to the District 6 Museum. District 6 in Cape Town was a thriving multi-racial community just outside the downtown area of the city. The apartheid government did not like its multi-racial quality and decided to tear it down, displacing about sixty thousand people from their houses. They declared it a white-only area in the Sixties. Interestingly, they could not bring themselves to tear down their churches, though (even though they were not Dutch Reformed). They bulldozed the area in 1982, and international protests prevented them from rebuilding anything on the land, so it remains largely an area of open land and weeds. The democratic government has only recently begun to build new homes and allow the former residents to move back. The Museum is supposed to be a very good one. But it was closed for the Easter weekend, so we never got to see it, in spite of walking down there twice.
Cape Town, or at least the part we were in, is not particularly pedestrian-friendly. Narrow sidewalks, coupled with crazy drivers on the roads, tends to discourage most walkers.

We did manage to get to Greenmarket Square, on Good Friday filled with sellers of wood carvings; cloth and tapestries; and jewelry, etc.—all geared to the tourists, but (as we are tourists) quite nice. We bought more stuff to get home, and had a pleasant lunch before heading back up for one more try at seeing the city from the top of Table Mountain. We got back on the bus, which takes you partway up the mountain to the start of the cable car. On the way up, we saw the sign that the cable car was closed, and as we went up the road, we discovered why: there were high winds on the way up that rocked the bus (to my thinking) dangerously as it negotiated the hairpin turns going up. I very nearly got off the bus to take a taxi back down, but the bus made it slowly and safely, going down via the Atlantic coast (the winds here put on a good show). The day finished with a tour of the canal system at the Waterfront, and then home again.

The Saturday was our last day in Africa. After a slow morning, we tried again, unsuccessfully, to visit the District 6 Museum, then walked over to the Company's Gardens (originally vegetable gardens set up by the Dutch East India Company to supply their boats, and now more a botanical garden with many kinds of exotic trees and plants. And following that, a taxi ride to the Winchester Mansions in Sea Point for a fancy drink and snack overlooking the ocean with the setting sun as backdrop.

And then it was over. Taxi to the home, finish packing and off to the airport. Loaded along with three hundred others into a jumbo jet on its way to cold London for three days with Dan.
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Location:Yeoville Rd,Cape Town,South Africa

Rovos Rail

We knew this would be luxurious; we had no idea how much it would blow our collective minds. From the moment that we were dropped off, we were enveloped in a cloud of luxury. The train station is situated next to the Victoria Falls Hotel, itself no small bit of luxury. We wee met at the station by a concierge who plied us with drinks before we got to the platform and were entertained by a group of nine men dressed as Zulu warriors, dancing and singing for us (and, frankly, for tips and the sales of their CD). They worked hard for the money they got, and Darlene and I, at least, were impressed by the energy they showed, as well. Their harmonies and drummings. But the big surprise was yet to come.

We got on the train, and were escorted to our room. We were told that we had been upgraded to the Royal Suite. We were initially worried that we might have to pay some kind of surcharge for this, but the train manager, Joe, came by and explained that it had not been rented, and he liked Canadians, and we were the only Canadians, so he moved us there. Not too shabby!

As I was writing this, I had had a shower while watching the scenery going by out the window, had a lunch which should keep me for the next three days, and had been looking out the window at Baobabs and savannas of Zimbabwe. It doesn't get a lot better, I expect.

As we sat down for our elegant supper (for which Bob even wore a tie and a jacket borrowed from Richard), we realized that, in fact, it does get better. Dinner was a four-course affair held in an elegant coach, with wines paired to each course. And wonderful wines they were. Again, we were going to stumble and roll into our beds. And just as well, since they rails are not well-maintained in this part of the world, and the train did an good imitation of rock and roll through the night.

We passed overnight into Botswana, a much more arid area. This country is one of just over two million people, with a high average income per year, but also a big disparity between rich and poor. Its government is stable, theoretically a democracy, but more actually an autocracy. And many stops along the way for passing freights, disabled trains ahead of us, or water or fuel refills. It took all day to get through this small country, but by midnight, we were again at a border crossing, this time into South Africa.

Sleep was good. Darlene had had a bath in the elegant bathtub of our royal suite, and came to bed. She had a troubling rash on her legs which she felt was a sun reaction, but turned out to be the forewarning of a larger allergic reaction. As I write this part of the story, she is covered in rash, has taken some allergy meds, and is asleep. We are hoping it is not an allergy to the malaria meds.

As we entered into South Africa, the land became more fertile, and there were farms of corn, sunflowers, and other crops, as well as cattle ranches. It became more hilly as well. And, of course, as we got closer to Johannesburg, we encountered mines and larger settlements.

The train ends in Pretoria, the capital city of South Africa, and we transfer to Jo'burg and a plane trip back to Cape Town.

Almost a postscript here: the train was supposed to end in Pretoria, after a brief stop in an out-lying area of Jo'burg to change engines. But, of course, this is Africa. So the company that had a contract to supply an engine to the train had no engine to supply, and simply shrugged its collective shoulders. We were hurriedly packed up, put into a minivan, and whisked to the Johannesburg Airport, some distance overall, and got there with only a small amount of time to spare. Fortunately, the plane ride was good, and got in on time. Unfortunately, Darlene's allergy was getting worse, and she was feeling chilled the whole while back (no, malaria does not start with a rash). A medical consult is on the books.


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Location:Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa

Victoria Falls

Our flight up to the Falls was a large Airbus, and it was full. This should have warned us about the intensity of the tourist experience at the Falls. The skies were mostly cloudy until we got near the town, and when we broke through, we could see the mist rising from the falls. It is know as Mosi-oa-Tunya, "smoke that thunders" for good reason. During the wet season (October through February), there is a tremendous volume of water flowing over a rift in the rock almost two kilometres wide. The mist from this rises into the sky and can be seen for ten kilometers. We had a tripped planned for the following day, but first to the hotel.

Actually, first we had to get through Zimbabwean customs, which is painstakingly slow. That process took more than ninety minutes for our meagre lineup. But Alex was waiting for us, and dropped us off at the Safari Lodge, a structure built of logs with a thatched roof (in traditional style). Our room was certainly smaller than at Sabi, but luxurious anyway, looking out over the plains of Zimbabwe's Victoria Falls National Park. And there was a watering hole just in front of the Lodge, so wildlife was present often.

Our first afternoon, we decided, would be spent on a helicopter ride over the Falls. Neither of us had ever been in a copter, so there was some anxiety. And Darlene was in e seat next to the pilot, and could see below her as well as to the side. But the view was so exciting, looking down at the Falls and the gorge, that both of us were not only fine, but very excited but the ride. A wonderful introduction. The night was quiet, the surroundings wonderful as well, and bed was enjoyed. This picture was taken through the window of the helicopter, so there is a reflection.

Our next morning, Saturday, was set aside for a Tour of the Falls, in our case led by Luckson, a local man from the Townships of the Falls. And it was amazing! You get close to this amazing chasm, and flow of water. You get soaked by the incredible spray. You can see the rainbows from the sun on the spray (once, a double rainbow). And you marvel at the rainforest vegetation. As well, there are wart hogs everywhere. You cannot imagine how thoroughly wet and happy we were at the end of this.

We had thought we might remain in the main town after this, but were wet enough we went back to the Lodge to get changed and dry out a bit. On the way back to the lodge, we stopped by a thousand-plus year old Baobab tree, so I could show Darlene why I liked them so much (she agreed that it was pretty special). We got back to town for a short while, but the persistence and vigour of the street vendors soon ovecame our resistance, and we retreated to the Victoria Falls Hotel for a drink, before getting picked up for the Sunset Cruise on the Zambesi River, above the Falls.

Now this cruise is not known as the "booze cruise" without reason. Alcohol is included and you are encouraged to drink it: when I asked for water, they pushed me to have something more substantial. The cruise itself went up and down the river, stopping for views of birds and wildlife when we saw them. The river at this point is about a kilometer wide, and now is running pretty fast. So there were places we could not go that are accessible in the dry season. We ended just after the sun went down and were driven back to the lodge, where we had a very pleasant supper. And, to add to the number of surprises coming out of this trip, we were approached after supper by a couple who thought that we were Canadians. We talked and compared noted, and found that they were actually from Hamilton, and lived only a few kilometres from us. And knew a number of our friends.

We would like to have spent longer there, and will the next time we come.

Packing, then bed, and early to rise the next morning.


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Location:Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Leaving Sabi-Sabi

Unfortunately, i developed some food poisoning similar to what I had had in Cuba, so the final day at Sabi was not as cheerful as I had hoped it would be. But our morning safari was productive—seeing two giraffe at close quarters and watching a leopard catch and eat a hare. Back to the lodge for breakfast ( water for me), then leaving at about 1 for the Nelspruit airport for our next leg of this journey.

The driver, Herbert Dubé, was black and had a home in the local Township, which he described as being freehold, with some land around his house. Apparently, the community (or, in some cases, the chief) gives you the land, and you have a period of time during which you must build a house, or the land reverts. In the Townships in South Africa, you do not pay land taxes, but pay for water and electricity. Some of the Townships in major cities are basically slums by another word. But those in the country are pretty reasonable.

While the flight to Jo'burg was pretty easy, the rest of the day was not. The big city airport is complicated, and there were, it felt, a hundred people trying to push their services on you; Darlene got quite aggressive at saying "no, I don't want help, thank you". We eventually found the shuttle to the assigned hotel, and thought we were fine.

A mistake: the hotel was part of a casino complex, huge in scope, with a mock-Roman theme coupled with ultra-modern ugly decor. The complex included a Hooters bar, and an inside mall complete with artificial sky! The rooms and hallways could perhaps be described as 1960's prison (with more space, granted. I was glad I felt unwell, so did not feel like eating at all, and went to bed early.

What a contrast from Sabi. We really felt we had left the bush. But Victoria Falls was next, and. Were looking forward to that.
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Location:Johannesburg

The Safaris

I am going to group together the safaris we have taken. Let me explain the typical day here.
We get a knock on the door to wake us at 5:30. They have tea, coffee, juices, muffins, croissants, and toast ready for us when we get to the main lodge area. And we take off at 6:00 for a three-hour driving safari through the grounds. Back by nine, then breakfast, which is served buffet style, with fresh local fruits, cereals, cheeses, yogurt, sparkling wine, preserved meats, jams, breads, baked goods, toast, and so on. Then there is the cooked and warm stuff: bacon, sausage, eggs, potatoes, tomatoes, mushrooms, onions, etc.
After that, if we can still walk, there is unstructured time. There is a spa here, so Darlene has taken some advantage of that. But we have often gone back to our cabin for a rest after the tough morning.
Lunch is at 1:30, with an appetizer, followed by soup, and a choice of mains (meat, fish, and vegetarian), then dessert.
Then more time off, until four, when there is tea, with little cakes, some tiny pastries, as well as a finger sandwich or two. And of course, tea, coffee, and juices. This is followed by the afternoon safari, starting at 4:30, again for three hours. Home by 7:30, dinner at eight, with the appetizer, soup, main and dessert options as per lunch.
And just in case you get peckish, the safari has a break where they provide something to drink (alcoholic in the afternoon), as well as some light food.
After this you tumble, bloated, into bed. I am afraid to weigh myself, my self-control being what it is with regards to food.
So back to the actual safaris. The company that owns the lodges (there are four like this one), owns the land, all of 65,000 hectares adjacent to the large Kruger National Park (itself no slouch at 65 km wide by 350 km long—about the size of Wales). While boundaries are marked and not crossed by humans, there are no fences for the animals. So they roam freely over a huge expanse. And there are lots of animals here, almost all kinds found on the continent.
The country is what is called bushveld, rolling land, with some drainage rivers which vary in size and amount of water; many are dry now, at the end of the wet season. Vegetation is grassy in most areas, with low and high bushes and trees. And the sky is wonderful, the vistas open and expansive, the sunsets and sunrises terrific.
The safari is by Land Rover, equipped to carry up to ten passengers, a driver/ranger, and a spotter (who sits on a seat outside the vehicle at the left front of the car). Interestingly, the animals have learned that these vehicles pose little or not threat to them, so we can get very close to them. But we stay in the vehicle: a human outside the confines of the vehicle might be considered to be "supper". (A note here: there are safaris on foot, but these are under a while different set of rules, since the animals see them as other animals, not as some strange vehicle.)
We are keeping a list of the animals we have seen, and it is pretty long right now. Mammals mostly, but there are many birds that I wouldn't recognize, as well as insects. And then trees and shrubs, grasses, and so on. It is all so different. So I will attach several photos of animals we have seen. They are far from exhaustive.

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Location:Sabi Sabi Bush Lodge

Safari

Today was much more than the travel day I had expected. Yes, we had to take a plane from Cape Town to Nelspruit (a two-hour flight), and yes, we were met by a driver (Markham, an Afrikaner) who drove us the two hours plus to get to the Lodge. On the way, we passed plantations of bananas (we were told that they do not need to use fungicides in South Africa yet), macadamia nuts, mango, eucalyptus trees (the seedlings are from Australia, and the wood is used for pulp, as well as for mining tresses and some building), and pine trees (also used for pulp). But we got there in time for the afternoon drive to see animals. So the day was far from just travel.

The routine involves a "snack" at four o'clock, followed by a driving safari at 4:30, for three hours. Supper is at eight. As we walked to the area for snacks (not too shabby: raspberry juice, orange juice, cookies, small cakes, finger foods), there was a small group of elephants eating just off the balcony area (later identified by our guide as a mother and three daughters of varying ages). They casually ate some branches and some grass, before meandering off. And this was before we started the actual safari.

So we were off in the Land Rover, six passengers and a driver (Jabu) and a spotter(Isaac), to see the animals. We pretty quickly found some impalas, and soon after a zebra and some Cape Buffalo. There was a wonderful African sky, replete with dark clouds warning of storms, and distant thunder and lightning strikes on the horizon. We saw few animals at this point, but were interested in the storm, as it approached, and eventually rained on us.

As we headed back, satisfied, to our supper, we were thankful to be here right now. The place is not full, so we get a bit more attention than we might otherwise. Supper was very good, and bed was welcomed.


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Location:Sabi Sands Lodge, Kruger National Park

A Day at the Beach

We did not have to get up early, so didn't. And b the time we were ready to go, it was after ten. We had a free ride to the beach, and had thought we would go to one called Clifton Beach. But the drivers suggested Camps Bay as being more amenable to a day trip, with ready accessibility to dining areas as well. He was right.

We were of course approached almost immediately to see if we wanted to buy a "local" painting. The vendor said he and his brother had done them all, and he proceeded to show us them. They were fairly average, and of clichéd scenes, with vibrant colours, but not a lot of imagination. And later, we saw almost exactly the same paintings being sold by other vendors. So we bought nothing from him.

We sat and read along the beach, Darlene walked and took some pictures, and she gathered a few shells. The sky was clear, although again the mountains were covered with cloud. This area has the beach, a lower-lying thin strip of land, then the mountain (not high mountains, but there nonetheless). Later in the afternoon, we went for some lunch, then back to the hotel.

That evening was to be the Cape Town Carnival, and we had front row seats, since the parade formed up outside our hotel and walked along just past the place. It was going to be an exciting time, the hotel employees told us. They had opened their own doors to the street to sell food to the onlookers.

And there were a lot of people there to watch. The floats and the dancers which went by in groups according to themes, and we are told there were 2000 dancers, on top of the cops and others who were there as organisers.

By midnight, the street slowed down, and people were going home. We were already home, so just went to bed. Tomorrow comes early sometimes.

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Location:Camps Bay

Robben Island

Robben Island: what more can be said than that it was a horrible confinement in a horrible prison for many political dissidents of the sixties through eighties.

We had booked ahead, on the advice of many people, and we were glad we did—there is a ferry boat which takes you to the island, and it was packed. It is a half-hour ride across the seventeen kilometres of shark-visited, cold waters. And when you get there, it looks at first like an ordinary place.

You are put on buses and driven around the settlement area; this island was used four hundred years ago by sailors, then settled and used for a mental and chronic hospital, then a leper colony, then a military establishment and base during the Great Wars, and finally a prison. But only a prison for non-white males: females and whites went to better prisons in Pretoria. The picture is of the limestone quarry worked  by the prisoners. the small pile of stones nearer the foreground was put there by ex-prisoners at one of their reunions.

Sentences were extended without reason. Work was added on to schedules, reading and talking were limited. One man—Robert Sobukwe—was so feared by the government that they put him in solitary and forbid the guards from talking with him at all. He was let out at the end of his sentence, after international pressure, then promptly re-arrested. In the end they only let him out to die, so they wouldn't have his death on their hands, and face the world with that crime as well.

The bus ride took about an hour plus, and in the end we had only slightly more than a half-hour for the prison talk, which was led by a former inmate. At the end of this, Darlene and I decided we had not done enough, so skipped our planned ferry home, and joined another tour, one with a group of young Argentinian rugby players. In the end, we heard parts of the prison discussion three times through three different guides. There are some stories coming out of that. And we met a young man from the rugby team that spoke fair English and was soon attached to us, exchanging emails with us by the end of the trip.

So we caught the later ferry and soon were back in Cape Town, hungry by then (mid-afternoon). Stopped for a sandwich and a glass of wine, then I took off back to the hotel to write this blog. Darlene wanted to take more time, so came later. She tried a new route and got lost, but eventually, after careful consultation with several security people along the way, arrived hot and tired at the hotel.

Our supper was with Don Pinnock and his wife Patricia, who will be our B & B hosts for the second leg in Cape Town. And they were going to store for us a bag of things not needed on the next leg of this journey.

Turns out that we have a lot in common. Both of us as couples have two children, same ages. Both of us went through the radicalization of the sixties on the left of the spectrum, and have maintained some sort of involvement with our early adulthood causes. We spoke long and in depth about many subjects, and will be glad to have the time with them when we return to this area.

Night came late, but we slept well.


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Location:Somerset Rd,Cape Town,South Africa

Tour of the Cape, March 14

This morning began early, and I admit I was a bit concerned that it would be day of going only to where the tour guide wanted us to, and that this would be a series of tourist rip-offs. Fortunately, Ali was not like that. And we were only four, two besides Darlene and I. So we got a special tour, going east along the shore to Clifton, with its fine beaches, then to Llandudno, and on to Hout Bay, where we stopped again to visit a Flea Market (where I bought something), had a coffee, and were off.

As we went up the coast road out of Hout Bay (a road enjoyed by many cyclists of all ages), we were waved over by one of the cyclists who informed us there were whales, a mother and calf, in the bay just by the road. So of course we stopped. Everyone was startled to see them, since the whales calf in the summer and are usually well gone by now. And more startled when it was clear that the calf was an albino, very rare. And even more startled when we looked and found there to be three mother-calf pairs in the water, all very close. As well as a fourth, without a calf. Many long-time residents of the areea said they had never seen anything like this. We spent a very good hour plus, looking and marveling, at these wonderful beasts (apparently Southern Right Whales), rolling and swimming in the area near us. While we were on the road, up a steep incline and thus about two hundred metres from them, it was for me mesmerizing to watch them. The mother is said to lose about half her weight from just before birth to weaning, since she feeds the calves about six hundred litres of milk per day, and can't go looking for food as she did before.

But we had other places to see as well. So off we went over Chapman's Peak, then to Simon's Town, and to the beach at The Boulders. Here there is an African penguin colony, protected by the state, where we can walk around on a boardwalk and see them. (Why a boardwalk, you might ask? Well, this not only protects the delicate beach vegetation, and serves to separate the humans and penguins somewhat, but also prevents us from taking a penguin; about five years ago, a tourist actually tried to remove one presumable to take hime with them!)

However, our wily guide knew another beach just down the road where you can get up close to the little birds, and swim with them if you wish. As well, it's a very nice beach. So we went there, and I got the photos to prove it.
After that, on our way to the south-west tip of the cape, Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope. They claim at this is the windiest spot on the planet, and I can believe them. There is an old lighthouse at Cape Point, and when I climbed up to it, I was almost blown over. Terrific view, mind you, even though I was getting worried it might be the last view I would ever have. But returned to lower ground safely, and we were off to the other Cape, of Good Hope, which has no light house, just rocks, and the sign that you have to take a picture of.

However, on the way, we saw some ostriches grazing (is that the word) on the low brush. As well as a group of cars which had stopped to view a pair of baboons (against advice, by the way). They were learning their lesson—the people, not the baboons—with one baboon sitting on the top of one of the cars, and proceeding on to taking off the driver's-side mirror; the other one was in the back of a pickup truck and wasn't about to move until someone fed him. The baboons have apparently developed a taste for Western food, and are smart enough to open cars to get it. Of course, it was we humans who trained them to do this by feeding them in the past.
Then we drove the long distance back to Cape Town, and we were able to engage Ali in a conversation about life under apartheid. He is mixed race, one parent being Malay, and the other Indian. So his family was put into a designated area, and they had to fight to get what they needed there (like good education). Having these conversations (and we have had many) help to increase the complexity of our view of this country, which is for the good.
After being let off at the hotel, we went out for supper at a local restaurant, called simply "Gold". It presents a prix-fixe menu which is a sampling of Pan-African cuisine, accompanied by dancing and singing in the African style. And was preceded by a drumming session. So a very interesting night overall, following a spectacular day.
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Location:Somerset Rd,Cape Town,South Africa

Cape Town March 13

It is hard to believe that we are on the same Earth that we have been on for the last four days. When we left Dundas, it was above zero with some snow on the ground. then to London, where it was below zero with blowing snow. and now to SouthAfrica, where it is, or was, over 30 today.
But I get ahead of myself. To begin at the begin, we left Dundas very early on March 9, getting to the airport in plenty of time for nice coffee before going through security, got on the plane and settled in for a long ride to England—made longer by a computer glitch that prevented our takeoff for about an our in Toronto.

But we got there, and met the taxi that Dan had arranged for us, getting to his place by eleven his time. After almost paying the driver way too much, by my error, we had a nice chat with Dan before tumbling into bed.
The next day was cold and damp, with some rain and some snow. So we did rather a little bit. Darlene was able to find her way to a Quaker House for a meeting there. Dan and I went to the London Museum to look at an exhibit about the "resurrection men": those folks who used to dig up bodies to sell to medical researchers. (Actually, as I think about it, we still do that, but don't sell the actual physical body.) then we met for lunch and then home. I had a long nap to help with the jet-lag, Darlene took a walk, and Dan worked on his computer. We had company for supper, Dan's good friend Siv and his wife Ruth. Dan prepared the meal, and we all ate well before retiring to our respective beds.

Monday was a repeat of Sunday in terms of weather. Darlene and I got out for a coffee on the High Street, but otherwise we were inside in the warmth. This was the day we had blowing snow. But it was also the day we were going to go out to se a play: Les Misérables, in the West End. After a trip to the Apple Store for Dan, a supper, and a brisk cold walk, we ended up at the Queen Theatre, and watched the performance of a play which has gone on for 28 years uninterrupted. We know the words and the music, but it still grabs at us. A thoroughly enjoyable evening, with the possible exception of the frigid ride home.
And then it was Tuesday, and we had a concert for noon, before heading to the airport.
So now we are in Cape Town. The flight down was almost enjoyable, even though I didn't sleep much. And we arrived to a meeting with our tour rep, and a taxi drive to get us into town. Temperature was over thirty in town.
I got hit with time change, so I had a nap of about two hours. Darlene, of course, went out for a local walk (considered safe at that time of day), and came back bearing wine and pastries. Yum. After some unpacking and some relaxing, we headed down for a supper at the hotel, which turned out to be convenient and not much else. But we were early to bed, since the following day was to be our tour of the Cape, beginning early. It was hot enough that we had to turn on the air conditioner for thermal, if not auditory, comfort.
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Location:Somerset Street, Cape Town