23 March, 2013

Victoria Falls

Our flight up to the Falls was a large Airbus, and it was full. This should have warned us about the intensity of the tourist experience at the Falls. The skies were mostly cloudy until we got near the town, and when we broke through, we could see the mist rising from the falls. It is know as Mosi-oa-Tunya, "smoke that thunders" for good reason. During the wet season (October through February), there is a tremendous volume of water flowing over a rift in the rock almost two kilometres wide. The mist from this rises into the sky and can be seen for ten kilometers. We had a tripped planned for the following day, but first to the hotel.


Actually, first we had to get through Zimbabwean customs, which is painstakingly slow. That process took more than ninety minutes for our meagre lineup. But Alex was waiting for us, and dropped us off at the Safari Lodge, a structure built of logs with a thatched roof (in traditional style). Our room was certainly smaller than at Sabi, but luxurious anyway, looking out over the plains of Zimbabwe's Victoria Falls National Park. And there was a watering hole just in front of the Lodge, so wildlife was present often.


Our first afternoon, we decided, would be spent on a helicopter ride over the Falls. Neither of us had ever been in a copter, so there was some anxiety. And Darlene was in e seat next to the pilot, and could see below her as well as to the side. But the view was so exciting, looking down at the Falls and the gorge, that both of us were not only fine, but very excited but the ride. A wonderful introduction. The night was quiet, the surroundings wonderful as well, and bed was enjoyed. This picture was taken through the window of the helicopter, so there is a reflection.


Our next morning, Saturday, was set aside for a Tour of the Falls, in our case led by Luckson, a local man from the Townships of the Falls. And it was amazing! You get close to this amazing chasm, and flow of water. You get soaked by the incredible spray. You can see the rainbows from the sun on the spray (once, a double rainbow). And you marvel at the rainforest vegetation. As well, there are wart hogs everywhere. You cannot imagine how thoroughly wet and happy we were at the end of this.




We had thought we might remain in the main town after this, but were wet enough we went back to the Lodge to get changed and dry out a bit. On the way back to the lodge, we stopped by a thousand-plus year old Baobab tree, so I could show Darlene why I liked them so much (she agreed that it was pretty special). We got back to town for a short while, but the persistence and vigour of the street vendors soon ovecame our resistance, and we retreated to the Victoria Falls Hotel for a drink, before getting picked up for the Sunset Cruise on the Zambesi River, above the Falls.

Now this cruise is not known as the "booze cruise" without reason. Alcohol is included and you are encouraged to drink it: when I asked for water, they pushed me to have something more substantial. The cruise itself went up and down the river, stopping for views of birds and wildlife when we saw them. The river at this point is about a kilometer wide, and now is running pretty fast. So there were places we could not go that are accessible in the dry season. We ended just after the sun went down and were driven back to the lodge, where we had a very pleasant supper. And, to add to the number of surprises coming out of this trip, we were approached after supper by a couple who thought that we were Canadians. We talked and compared noted, and found that they were actually from Hamilton, and lived only a few kilometres from us. And knew a number of our friends.

We would like to have spent longer there, and will the next time we come.

Packing, then bed, and early to rise the next morning.


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