As we went up the coast road out of Hout Bay (a road enjoyed by many cyclists of all ages), we were waved over by one of the cyclists who informed us there were whales, a mother and calf, in the bay just by the road. So of course we stopped. Everyone was startled to see them, since the whales calf in the summer and are usually well gone by now. And more startled when it was clear that the calf was an albino, very rare. And even more startled when we looked and found there to be three mother-calf pairs in the water, all very close. As well as a fourth, without a calf. Many long-time residents of the areea said they had never seen anything like this. We spent a very good hour plus, looking and marveling, at these wonderful beasts (apparently Southern Right Whales), rolling and swimming in the area near us. While we were on the road, up a steep incline and thus about two hundred metres from them, it was for me mesmerizing to watch them. The mother is said to lose about half her weight from just before birth to weaning, since she feeds the calves about six hundred litres of milk per day, and can't go looking for food as she did before.
But we had other places to see as well. So off we went over Chapman's Peak, then to Simon's Town, and to the beach at The Boulders. Here there is an African penguin colony, protected by the state, where we can walk around on a boardwalk and see them. (Why a boardwalk, you might ask? Well, this not only protects the delicate beach vegetation, and serves to separate the humans and penguins somewhat, but also prevents us from taking a penguin; about five years ago, a tourist actually tried to remove one presumable to take hime with them!)
However, our wily guide knew another beach just down the road where you can get up close to the little birds, and swim with them if you wish. As well, it's a very nice beach. So we went there, and I got the photos to prove it.
After that, on our way to the south-west tip of the cape, Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope. They claim at this is the windiest spot on the planet, and I can believe them. There is an old lighthouse at Cape Point, and when I climbed up to it, I was almost blown over. Terrific view, mind you, even though I was getting worried it might be the last view I would ever have. But returned to lower ground safely, and we were off to the other Cape, of Good Hope, which has no light house, just rocks, and the sign that you have to take a picture of.
However, on the way, we saw some ostriches grazing (is that the word) on the low brush. As well as a group of cars which had stopped to view a pair of baboons (against advice, by the way). They were learning their lesson—the people, not the baboons—with one baboon sitting on the top of one of the cars, and proceeding on to taking off the driver's-side mirror; the other one was in the back of a pickup truck and wasn't about to move until someone fed him. The baboons have apparently developed a taste for Western food, and are smart enough to open cars to get it. Of course, it was we humans who trained them to do this by feeding them in the past.
Then we drove the long distance back to Cape Town, and we were able to engage Ali in a conversation about life under apartheid. He is mixed race, one parent being Malay, and the other Indian. So his family was put into a designated area, and they had to fight to get what they needed there (like good education). Having these conversations (and we have had many) help to increase the complexity of our view of this country, which is for the good.
After being let off at the hotel, we went out for supper at a local restaurant, called simply "Gold". It presents a prix-fixe menu which is a sampling of Pan-African cuisine, accompanied by dancing and singing in the African style. And was preceded by a drumming session. So a very interesting night overall, following a spectacular day.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Somerset Rd,Cape Town,South Africa
No comments:
Post a Comment