Day 5, Cuba

Our task today was to visit the Plaza de la Revolución. After breakfast, we headed off, towards the Capitolio, then along Simón Bolivar, which becomes Salvador-Allende, and leads to the Plaza. It's a long walk, through varying neighbourhoods. we went through what they call Chinatown, past the Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagas, and the amazing building for the communications company. But also past a lot where there wer four or five train locomotives being repaired outdoors! And a park which doubles as a trading area for people with old cars. Walked past a park, which was closed. An older man on the street was sweeping and obviously got caught short, and leaned into the trash bag. We then saw a little puddle form under the cart— you do what you have to. We then went past the Central Bus Station for Havanans, a large stadium, and finally to the Plaza. It is really impressive in scope and size. Remarkable that there is no statue or likeness of Fidel there.

The walk back included a stop at the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús. This is a white marble church with amazing stained glass windows and, at this time of year, and elaborate Christmas crèche. It was terrific, and a pleasant respite from the noises and smells of the outdoors.

Then was a long walk back along Simón Bolivar back to the Parque Central and a waiting beer and water. This time they caught us and wouldn't let us go up to the roof, so we stayed in the lobby for refreshments, and then left to get some lunch elsewhere. Where we landed was not where we expected, there being a young man outside one restaurant who was actually working for another paladar. We had a good, very abundant, and relatively cheap lunch. Then went back to the farmer's market before heading home to the hotel.

We met a wonderful woman who works for one of the tour agencies, who was able to help us get our bus tickets to Cienfuegos, and also a room in Varadero for the last night. Easy once you know how.

Supper was at another paladar. This time, we had wanted to go to one recommended by the book, but it was closed, so we started for another one. One of the jineteras convinced us to try one that she knew. It was, as usual for paladars, on the third floor with a narrow walk-up. Called the El Cubano; food was mediocre at best, but the music was wonderful. A group of four people, drum, two guitars and a flute. The woman playing the flute also sang, and was wonderful.

The one guy had only three strings in his guitar, but made it sound like there were six. And the guy on drums was also amazing. And they all move so incredibly well, it brings to mind too many stereotypes.

On the way home, through the semi-darkened streets (many of the street lights don't work, although we chose a street with a bit more light so we could avoid the dog shit. Some of the streets you have to remind yourself there isn't danger, since they feel kind of spooky.). Part-way along, we move to one side to allow some approaching middle-aged women go by, when the larger of them stretches out her arms, says in a loud voice "HOLA!", and does a little shimmy in my direction. It brings a smile to us both, as I return the "hola!" and a bit of a shimmy. And such is the spirit of the Cuban people.

An early night. Tomorrow is our last day here.

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Location:Hotel Florida