We had a wonderful time in Quebec, rediscovering old places, and finding new ones. I don't think we did a lot of the tourist things, but we still managed to amuse ourselves. Lots of walking, up and down hills, allowed us the fantasy that we were burning off enough calories to enjoy guilt-free good meals. Our host at La Maison Daulac was Mme Cécile Paradis, who (it turns out) is an amazing cook, at least for breakfast. I had her fruits cup and muffin, followed by a crepe, and was ready for a morning nap. However, the day was cool but sunny, so we went off. Walking took us soon to the "ascenseur" where Darlene caught a ride up the escarpment, and I took the stairs out of some misguided manliness. we stopped for a look over the part of town where we had spent the night.
But that was only a part of the way up. the streets still would test the brakes of any car. And any walker.
Lots of walking down small side streets, finding our way to one of the tourist areas where we came across a shop (Oliv) which sold olive oils and balsamic vinegars. So we now have six extra bottles of things to bring home with us.
And then to the Dufferin Terrace for a sit-down rest, some more walking through the streets to the area of the Porte St-Louis. Across this to the Assemblé Nationale building, and along its promenade, eventually getting back to Grande-Allée where we stopped for a coffee (yes, a Starbucks).
Some more wandering found us again in the Lower Town, and ready for a late lunch/early supper. Where we had wanted to go, a place we had visited last year, was a diner-like place called Buffet de l'Antiquaire. It had posted a sign that it was taking only cash, and this led to me leaving Darlene in a sunny place, and me heading off to find a cash machine. No luck with that, But luck in another way: we found a lovely restaurant just down the street, Le Mistral Gagnant. He not only let us in early (his chef had not even arrived) and provided us with a glass of wine each, but later went on to serve us a wonderful meal of "riz-de-veau" in my case, and lamb in Darlene's. All done in a Provincal way that appealed to us.
We must have walked over fifteen kilometres that day, so bed felt good, and sleep was just fine.
Yesterday was my birthday. Nothing special, but another fine breakfast with Mme Paradis, and this time off on a sunny morning for a walk along the St-Charles River nearby. We walked both sides of the river, through a national park which was pretty amazing as well, before heading back to the Lower Town in search of the phantom ATM. This time, we found it, all of fifty yards from where we had been the previous night. And armed with this new-found wealth, ate our lunch at the Buffet de l'Antiquaire (again, very good).
Our trip back to the B&B by foot, passed us by the quai where our boat was moored, and then walked back to room for a brief rest and the retrieval of our bags.
Then on to the actual boat, the first line-up of the day, as we got on the ship and found our room. Settling in was swift, and then a supper. We had been told we would go for a tour of the harbour at night, but the wind had whipped up the river enough that it was cancelled. An early night.
Next morning, the ship's engines got us up about six, and we went up to watch the sunrise over the town
And then we had to go into a lock to get out of the harbour. What? I asked myself...but the harbour is actually kept at a constant water level, while the river is tidal. We went down almost six feet from harbour to river.
Then a final look back at the wonderful city of Québec, and we were off into the River, on our way to Trois-Rivières.
From here, it was simply a matter of steaming along the river, against the current (which is surprisingly strong for a river this broad). The shore was sometimes rocky, sometimes flat agricultural land. Sometimes houses, sometimes forest or farmland.
And we pulled into town almost right on schedule, and went off on a tour of the Shrine at Cap-de-la-Madeleine. This Catholic shrine is a bit vulgar in its size and self-aggrandizement, but the little chapel that started the whole thing is kind of charming. I have a picture of the statue of the Virgin Mary that began the whole thing (admittedly rather fancied up).
After the tour, we walked into town, bought a Globe and some lip balm. The city itself is the centre of the pulp and paper industry for most of North America, and still has four functioning mills. In spite of the decline in demand for newsprint, it seems to be doing okay—so far. A pleasant downtown, which seems to be alive.
However, we were not so alive. Back to the boat, supper, and a mixing-type game of Trivia, and off to bed. It's surprising how tired you can get doing almost nothing except eat and read!
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Location:Place Bussières,Deschaillons-sur-Saint-Laurent,Canada
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