Day two in Santiago

Today was to be our first real day of biking here. We went out to a park area to the east of Santiago, past Savilla. Breakfast at 7:30, on the road by 8:30. And you soon learn why you want an early start. The temperature in the early morning is in the mid-20's, and by 10 it is close to 30, if not above. We had about 40-50 km of route to bicycle, and headed off into it with a certain blind vigour. This was soon quenched by the hills and the heat, and most of us settled into a slow, somewhat leisurely trek through the hills and alongside the ocean.

(I should mention in here that Brendan had asked the tour guide—Dan—if he could have a little extra cycling. So Dan set him up with a Cuban who had competed and done well in the national time trials in biking here in Cuba. Brendan was sweating even before he got on his bike! But fortunately, the guy was amiable and they had a good ride out to where we were to start [we were bussed out to this point]. Brendan did well, and the two of these heavy cyclists appear to be friends now.)

The ride out was hot, with several stops for water and resting after hills. We went through a few small communities, each with a school and a health clinic. And rode, as I said, beside the sea for some time. There were mangrove areas by the sea, and the main part of the "beach" area was rocky, but there were some sandy areas as well. And on the other side of the road was a landscape with cacti, hills with jagged rocks unsmoothed by glaciers or even wind/water.

And in one area, there were caves cut into the side of the cliff, perhaps by the water, but also perhaps by pre-historic humans. This was an area of clear significance, since it was fenced off and there were paths around it.

Interestingly, there were a few resorts that we passed, which seemed to be mostly empty. They were flying the Canadian flag, among others, so I assume they were geared towards foreigners. This would be a nice area to vacation.

When we got to the end of the road, we were to turn around and bike back about 10 km or so to a picnic area, where there would be lunch and a swim. However, I was feeling a bit nauseated and not sure if the heat wasn't getting to me. So I took the bus back to join the others. When we got there, we unpacked the bus, got changed, and headed for the beach (beers in hand, of course).

Before I could even get ready for swimming, I was approached by three girls, very friendly and wanting to know about me. They were acting very much like the jinateras that you read about. It was sad, seeing young girls (maybe fifteen) acting like this. When I asked the guide Jose (who is with Cubanatur) about this, he said that I have to understand that they get travel privileges and a lot of money by doing this, and although it is not to be condoned, it can be understood. He talked about how there is now a plan afoot to improve the efficiency of the Cuban economy by letting some people go, and by introducing taxation for the first time. But along with this is a greater freedom for free enterprise among the people, and a desire on the part of the government to increase salaries
to where they are about equal in Cuban pesos and Convertible pesos (now the differential is about 20:1). So who knows what the future may bring. The Cubans are looking to China and to Viet Nam for ideas, and feel that these revolutions have made some progress which can be learned from.

We had some time this afternoon, so we read, swam in the pool, talked and walked around the property. So far, things were good (although watching older Italian men around the pool with teenage Cuban woman was rather disgusting). And we went for supper with the group at a restaurant in Santiago called ZumZum, a government-run restaurant in what was at one point the swanky part of the town—a boulevard with colonial-style houses on either side of the street. Food was good, and the atmosphere was also quite nice. I think we were pretty tired, though, because we were quite quiet coming home in the bus.

Our time in Santiago has been good. It is in better shape than Havana, and seems to be better cared for. And the country around it shows what Cuba is really about. The houses are solid and seem in good repair. the people are working, and look to be well-fed. Schools are present, and the children as always are clean and vibrant. This is what I remember, from before, of Cuba.

Tomorrow we start early and do a ride around Santiago (literally: along the Ring Road), then will try to ride along part of the highway. But it is mostly torn up for repairs, having been damaged in the hurricanes of a few years ago. So we are not sure what will meet us. And we are to stay in a resort in the mountains.

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Location:Santiago de Cuba