January 19, West of Santiago

Today was a great day. Some cloud in the morning when we got up (at 6:30), but we had wanted to be cool, which is why we planned to be on the road by 8. The plan had been to do a circuit tour of Sanitago, then take the ocean road west to Chirivico. We knew that the road had been badly damaged by the hurricanes of 2008, and that many parts of it would be in rough shape, so the plan was to tour the city on good roads, then do as much as we could of the ocean road.

After leaving the hotel, by bike, we went around the traffic circle, the headed east and then north, along a four-lane divided highway, complete with overpasses. But also complete with horse-drawn carriages, converted buses, pedestrians, bicycles, private cars, broken trucks, and even dogs and chickens. What was interesting was watching the people showing up for their day jobs, many in the fields. We saw lettuce and tomatoes, what was likely broccoli, and perhaps carrots as well. And squash of some kind. We also saw people taking this produce, often in sacs held onto their bikes, but sometimes in trucks or cars, off to where they would sell or distribute it. We ended up at Plaza de la Revolucion again, before heading north through the city, to the area where there are oil refineries and factories. For me, this was the unlaundered tour of the city, and it was great. Gritty, but still in better apparent repair than in Havana. More garbage on the street and beside the street than I would like, and there was one river we crossed which looked rather like a cesspool. But interesting nonetheless.

After the oil refineries, we turned west, and then south along paved country roads, past farms (many collective farms) where there began to be a plethora of animals, from goats to sheep to pigs to cows to horses and donkeys. Many cars passed (one stopped and said to me [I think] that they expect to see me in the coliseum because of my pedalling), but gradually the cars gave way to bikes, horses and trucks. Some wonderful views of the ocean and of the mountains. Several small towns with schools full of lovely children. And lots of people out on the road, walking, riding, sometimes sitting, sometimes working. Most waved hello.

The road broke up at points, and the going got difficult, but we persisted. There was several bridges where parts had been washed out, probably during the hurricanes. There was a truck accident: a truck in the ditch, and another truck trying to winch it out again. There was a vineyard and a coffee roasting place. And there were beaches, both rocky and sandy ones. We were many time tempted to stop, but we knew we had a fancy hotel waiting for us.

The bus passed us several times, then waited for us to catch up. There was water with the bus, which was very welcome. And once there were bananas, ripened on the tree, which were different from any I have had before. Lee and I pedalled together, and agreed to pedal until the end of the good pavement, and then catch our bus to the hotel. By now it was past noon, and we figured we had done about 60 km. Eventually the bus came, we fell into it, and were driven the last 9 km to the hotel. We had done almost 70 km today (140 since we started). With the heat, and the bad roads, this was enough. We felt we deserved that extra Cervesa.

The hotel is grand, with the rooms going down the cliff at the side of the mountains, and a large pool, lots of extras, and all-you-can-eat included (as well as all-you-can-drink).

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Location:near Chivirico