31 January, 2011

On to El Salton

Today was a day of interesting contrasts. It started out slowly, since we were not going to leave the hotel until after 10. A lazy breakfast, some time after that in the room, then pack and get going. It had been nice to be there for a few nights, but I was glad to be moving on.

Because of the road system, we had to drive back into Santiago, then go on a different road, going northwest from there. One of the stops was at the Basilica de Nuestra Senora du Cobre, in El Cobre (copper). This town has the longest-running copper mine in the Western World, having begun operation in the 16th century. The "Virgen" in the Basilica is supposed to have saved three men from drowning sometime in the 17th century, and is now the most revered religious icon in Cuba. She is especially important to the Santeria religion, but most Cubans see her as special and a pilgrimmage there is expected for most people. Even Fidel's mother went there and left an offering to help ensure his well-being during the Revolutionary War.

Of course, with this amount of importance. there goes a lot of hucksters. I was offered many statues for my tee-shirt. I must learn how to say "f--- off and leave me alone" in Spanish. But nonetheless, it was a good visit there, and then we were off towards our riding area.

We stopped in Contremaestre and were sent off with bananas, oranges and peanut butter cookies. While it was lunchtime, there was no place for us to picnic. So we decided to bike for about ten km, and then find a place out of town in the country. This was mountain country, with the hills and valleys to go with it. I had to walk up some of the hills, but made it up on my pedals for most. And the downhills were great. Also the views. We stopped by a river, next to a farm with chickens and turkeys, for a larger lunch (salmon, avocado, bananas, pineapple, oranges, as well as crackers and peanut butter cookies).


It was great, and tough to get going again. But we had a ways to go before it got dark, and a few more hills to climb.

This country has market gardening, with potatoes, tomatoes, oranges, lettuce, cabbage, carrots, etc all growing. On a larger scale, there is a lot of sugar cane, with the distillery near it as well to make it into rum. And some corn and bananas.

We wound our way slowly, having left the good pavement behind, into Cruchos de los Baños, and then on to Filé. We lucked out there, in that there was a street dance being held with some local young people, whoc were quite wonderful. We stopped and watched for ten minutes or so before going off to the El Salton. This, it turns out, is about three km down a dirt road.


At one point, I was alone on the road, and began to wonder what I was doing. But I made it, and the place looks just fine (the fact that they met us at the entrance with a tray of drinks helped a lot).

Tonight I will sleep well: I am very tired. We had done only 35 km, but they were very hard kilometres.


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